The Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel

The world of luxury replica watches has been captivated by the release of the Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel. This extraordinary timepiece pays homage to the original Panerai Submersible, while incorporating modern advancements and design elements that take it to new depths of excellence.

The Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a diver’s dream come true. With a robust stainless steel case and a water resistance of up to 300 meters, this watch is built to withstand the most demanding underwater adventures. The unidirectional rotating bezel allows for precise timing of dives, while the luminescent indexes and hands ensure optimal legibility even in the darkest depths.

One of the standout features of the Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is its innovative eSteel construction. This revolutionary material is a blend of recycled steel and cutting-edge alloys, making it not only environmentally friendly but also incredibly durable. The eSteel case is resistant to scratches, corrosion, and general wear and tear, ensuring that this watch will continue to shine for years to come.

Inside the AAA quality replica Ranerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel beats a high-precision automatic movement. This movement is equipped with a power reserve of 72 hours, ensuring accurate timekeeping even during extended adventures beneath the waves. The transparent case back allows enthusiasts to marvel at the intricate inner workings of this horological masterpiece.

The dial of the Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a work of art in itself. The bold numerals and indices, complemented by the date window at the 3 o’clock position, create a harmonious and functional design. The sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating ensures excellent visibility and protects the dial from scratches and impacts.

In addition to its exceptional performance, the Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a true statement piece on the wrist. The 42mm case size strikes the perfect balance between presence and wearability, while the sturdy rubber strap adds a sporty touch. Whether worn during underwater explorations or as a stylish accessory for everyday wear, this watch is sure to attract attention and admiration.

In conclusion, the Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is a remarkable timepiece that combines the heritage of Panerai with modern technology and design. With its exceptional durability, precise timekeeping, and striking aesthetics, this watch is a worthy companion for any diving enthusiast or luxury watch collector. Dive into the depths of excellence with the Replica Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel and experience the thrill of exploring the underwater world with style and confidence.

Hands-On Debut: Replica Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium

Just released by perfect replica Hublot at LVMH Watch Week is the wild new MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium. The new MP-10 transforms and reimagines watchmaking architecture in a novel vertical setup that integrates movement and dial. In the words of Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, “I gave our designers and watchmakers carte blanche, and this is the fruit of their labours.”

Telling the time on the MP-10 is actually quite simple via a stack of four rotating displays. The hour and minute displays are denoted with text as well as red pointers and it is quite easy to read the time as 10:45 in the image shown above. Below these (seen below) is the rotating power reserve display that goes from green to red. Again, simple enough. Finally, we reach the seconds display which is directly on the tourbillon cage which is done in monobloc aluminum and is inclined at an angle of 35°. This highly unusual configuration is patent pending and took five years of R&D to create. 

And then there is the automatic winding system. Rather than the typical rotor mechanism, the MP-10 has two vertical weights done in white gold on either side of the case. These weights are set on a vertical axis which allows them to move freely, thus powering the movement. Of course these weights can’t be any clanking up and down on their axis so Hublot installed a system of shock absorbers. This new HUB9013 manufacture movement is ingeniously creative and joyfully excessive (which is the entire point, right?). Operating at 3 Hz with a 48-hour power reserve, it can also be manually wound via the crown at 12 o’clock. Note that this crown is not used to set the time, which is done via a second crown on the case back. 

Done in a shiny microblasted titanium case, the MP-10 measures 41.5mm wide, 54.1mm in height, and 22.4mm thick (30m of water resistance). The crystal is Hublot’s most complex to date as it covers three inclined planes. This distinction also applies to the integrated rubber strap which is unsurprisingly their most elaborate to date given the construction of the case. 

Comprised of 592 parts, the Replica Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium is a testament to creative watchmaking and horological innovation.

The Dive Watches of Replica Rolex

Rolex currently produces four different dive watch models: the Submariner and Submariner Date, the Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea (listed here in order from lowest to highest in both size and price). The Submariner and Submariner Date share the same case size. Almost all watches in this collection offer versions with different materials, dial and bezel colors. The Submariner without a date indication is the entry-level piece and is priced at $7,500. Introduced in 1953, it was the first dive watch from Rolex. At that time, it had a bidirectional rotating bezel for measuring dive time. Initially, the perfect replica Rolex Submariner was water resistant to 100 meters, but by 1954 Rolex had already increased this level to 200 meters. In 1955, the English Royal Navy began using the Submariner as its official dive watch and the Royal Canadian Navy followed suit the following year.

Rolex first became famous in 1927 for its water-resistant watches with their patented screw-down crown, and the ingenious Oyster name was an effective marketing tool. During her more than 15-hour attempt to swim the English Channel, Mercedes Gleitze wore a water-resistant Rolex that withstood the ordeal. Rolex took out a front-page ad in the London Daily Mail to publicize the event that won the watch great acclaim.

Rolex also developed the Deep-Sea Special watch to explore the ocean depths. Between 1953 and 1960 it participated in several maritime expeditions, attached to the outer hull of submarines. The high point (or low point) was reached in 1960 when Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh maneuvered their Trieste submersible vessel down into the Mariana Trench to a depth of 10,916 meters, just a few meters short of the deepest point in the sea. The Deep-Sea Special survived unscathed. Although several pieces of this model were built, it never went into serial production. With a semi-spherical crystal and an overall height of 35 mm, it would still be too large to be considered wearable.

Submariner
Today’s Submariner measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.5 mm in height, which is slim for a dive watch. The watch without a date indication is powered by the self-winding in-house 3130 movement and with a date, by the 3135. Both calibers boast a power reserve of 48 hours. Chronometer certification from the independent testing agency COSC guarantees accuracy, alongside the company’s own stricter standards, which specify that every Rolex watch may not gain or lose more than 2 seconds per day. The Glidelock system can extend the bracelet for a precise fit and allows the Submariner to be worn over a wet suit. Like all Rolex dive watches, it has a metal bracelet and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a ceramic inlay.

Sea-Dweller
Saturation diving was developed in the early 1960s. When working at deep-sea locations, professional diving companies took advantage of the fact that after 24 hours under pressure, the human body will not absorb additional nitrogen, thereby limiting the time required for decompression. So to prepare themselves for working for extended periods at deep locations, professional divers would spend several days inside a pressure chamber filled with a helium-nitrogen-oxygen mixture. Once their underwater task had been completed, the pressure in the chamber was gradually reduced to normal levels. During this process, crystals from the divers’ watches would often pop out of their cases due to the helium trapped inside the watches. Divers in the Sealab program experienced this problem while helping the U.S. Marines carry out research on the effects of high pressure and various breathing gases on the human body.

A Sealab diver reported the problem to Rolex and suggested adding a pressure relief valve to safely release the helium that had penetrated the watch. aaa quality replica Rolex then developed its helium escape valve, which would be adopted by many other brands.

Rolex began working with the French diving specialist Comex in the early 1970s and supplied watches to all Comex divers, who then shared their experiences and helped with the ongoing development of the watches. Comex laid underwater cables, took care of diving work on oil rigs and salvaged shipwrecks. While doing so, they developed their own special tools and experimented with breathing gas mixtures. Comex set a number of depth records and a Sea-Dweller was on the wrists of their divers as they subjected themselves to each torturous trial. In 1972, two divers withstood 50 hours in a pressurized chamber measured at 610 meters deep. Later, Comex employees worked in the ocean at more than 500 meters, and in 1992, a Comex diver achieved a depth of 701 meters inside a pressure chamber. What Comex really needed was the Sea-Dweller with its three times higher water resistance and a helium escape valve.

Variations
With the exception of the Submariner with no date, every Rolex dive watch offers different options. The Deepsea is available with a black dial or with one that transitions from black to blue. As of 2019, the Sea-Dweller is available in both steel and steel-and-gold versions. The steel Submariner is offered with a black or green dial and matching bezel. It is also available in yellow gold and in steel and gold, and with either option the customer can choose a black or blue dial and bezel. A white-gold version is offered with a blue dial and bezel only. All in all, the dive watch collection consists of 12 different versions.

Replica Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

Cartier, the renowned French luxury watch and jewelry brand, has added a new timepiece to its replica Rotonde de Swiss made replica Cartier collection: the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. This exquisite watch offers both practicality and elegance, with a range of features that make it an ideal choice for collectors and watch enthusiasts alike.

The Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is powered by an automatic mechanical movement, ensuring accurate timekeeping and a smooth operating experience. The movement is housed within a 42mm case, which is available in various materials including rose gold, white gold, and platinum. The case is also water-resistant up to 30 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

One of the standout features of this replica watches for sale is its perpetual calendar function. This means that the watch automatically adjusts for leap years, making it unnecessary to manually adjust the date every four years. The calendar function is displayed on three sub-dials, which show the day, month, and year.

In addition to its perpetual calendar function, the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph also features a chronograph function. The chronograph function allows the wearer to time events accurately, with a central seconds hand and sub-dials that display elapsed time and minutes. The chronograph function is operated via pushers located on the side of the case.

The dial of the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is both elegant and easy to read. The Roman numerals and sword-shaped hands are classic Cartier design elements, while the sub-dials add a touch of complexity and sophistication. The sapphire crystal glass is scratch-resistant and provides excellent visibility of the dial.

The strap of the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is crafted from high-quality alligator leather, adding to the overall luxurious feel of the watch. The strap is available in various colors, allowing wearers to choose according to their personal style and preferences.

In conclusion, the AAA quality replica Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is an exceptional timepiece that combines practicality with elegance. Its perpetual calendar function and chronograph function make it a highly functional watch, while its exquisite design and meticulous craftsmanship make it a true work of art. Whether you’re a collector or simply appreciate the beauty of fine watches, the Rotonde de Cartier Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is sure to impress.

Testing the Replica Breitling Premier Heritage B15 Duograph 42

The new Premier Heritage B15 Duograph 42 is currently Breitling’s most elegant timepiece and an homage to the pioneering spirit of the company’s founders. Like its predecessor from the 1940s of the same name, it can record time intervals and is breaking new ground as it goes. We take a closer look.

Three generations AAA UK fake Breitling watches made their mark in the history of timekeeping: Léon Breitling founded the company in 1884. He later submitted a patent for a simple timer with a tachymeter that could measure any speed between 15 and 150 kilometers per hour.

Rattrapante Module Hidden Beneath the Dial 

In 2017, Breitling picked up this loose thread in history with the Navitimer Rattrapante. The in-house automatic Caliber B03 introduced with this timepiece now also serves as the basis for the hand-wound B15 caliber created for the Premier Heritage B15 Duograph 42, our test watch.

The watchmakers initially placed the complicated splitseconds mechanism with its additional column wheel, rattrapante wheel and clamps directly beneath the dial because highly precise drilling of the long chronograph tube is challenging. With the Venus 179 caliber, the split-seconds mechanism was moved to the back of the movement.

With the Caliber B03, and subsequently, also the B15, Breitling has returned the split-seconds complication, including the rattrapante wheel, column wheel and clamps, to the front of the movement. Placing the complication directly under the dial was done for more than simple historical reasons. These days, modern watchmaking and construction methods allow for various technical solutions for a rattrapante mechanism. Breitling went its own way, resulting in two patents.

The modular construction of the B03 movement, and thereby also the B15, permitted shifting the rattrapante mechanism to the dial side of the movement, now situated between the mainplate and the date ring. Unfortunately, this makes it invisible through the sapphire caseback window. The rattrapante mechanism uses traditional gearing and a stainless-steel split-seconds wheel. The second patented innovation is an isolating system that works as an energysaving separation between the stopped split-seconds from the actual chronograph mechanism. The rattrapante wheel has a rubber O-ring that replaces the geared edge. The entire split-seconds mechanism comprises only 28 individual components.

Hand-wound B15 Caliber with No Date 

From its inception, the modular design of the B03 caliber offered a variety of options. A self-winding mechanism may be used in this caliber to wind the movement, but the B15 does not offer this; instead it follows the growing trend of hand-wound watches. And unlike the B03, the B15 has no date indication, just like the original Premier Duograph from the 1940s.

A Shimmering Dial with Long Hands and Applied Markers 

Since only a few manufacturers offer this complex rattrapante technology, it’s a pleasure to see and experience it on the dial of a watch. As a reminder, rattrapante is from the French word rattraper, which means “to catch up.” A rattrapante chronograph has two stopwatch hands that can be stopped independently and rejoined at a later point. One chronograph hand can “catch up” to the other. If both hands are running simultaneously, the actual stopwatch hand carries the second one along, which is why one often speaks of a split-second chronograph. The two long needle-like hands differ very little in appearance but their short ends are easy to tell apart. The thicker top stopwatch hand ends in a ring, while the slightly thinner rattrapante hand below it has an arrowhead tip. These symbols were already part of the Duograph from 1944. Sometimes the steel hands and applied markers shimmer and reflect light so you have to move the Swiss movements replica watches a little to read the elapsed time. In the dark, only the main time with hours and minutes is visible, glowing bright green.

The strap is lined with a vibrant yellow that contrasts with the golden-brown sheen of the alligator leather on top, which recalls Willy Breitling’s notion of fulfilling people’s wishes for elegance and glamour with the Premier collection. Today, the Premier Heritage B15 Duograph 42 is being offered to those who are seeking a sophisticated chronograph, just as he intended.

Replica Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo: A Timeless Symphony in Gold

In recent years, there has been quite a change in the perception of watches equipped with a perpetual calendar. As an esteemed and classic complication, it was usually displayed in the traditional way, with subdials and windows for the moon phase under which a disc runs. This was the standard recipe for decades until the sports watch began to replace the gold dress watch as luxury item. It paved the way to incorporate the perpetual calendar in new ways into timepieces, as Replica Panerai did with the new Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269.

The Luminor has always been an unapologetically large watch, as it should be because that is also part of its appeal. As a poster boy for the tool watch, integrating a perpetual calendar complication into this watch is challenging. Panerai Replica Watches cleverly divided the different functions between the front and the back, allowing it to give you a lot of information while maintaining a clean look. The functions on the front are the ones you use the most, like the day and date. Panerai complemented that with a second timezone complication, making this Luminor also a practical travel companion. For this model, the dial is partially translucent. This allows you to see the day and date rings underneath, adding to the technical look of the Panerai. It also makes it that the thick hour markers seem to float, which is a very attractive detail.

On the back, we find a traditional three-quarter plate in which Panerai integrated the month, year, leap year, and power reserve indicator. The rest of the space is occupied by an attractive gold micro-rotor and the balance wheel, which is placed under a full bridge for better shock protection. When fully wound, the movement has a power reserve of 3-days. It is safe to say that the back of the watch is as attractive as the front without compromising that tool-watch feel that, I feel, is mandatory with any Panerai.

The Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 is also a treat in another way, as Panerai will only make 33 of them. The brand invites the clients who buy them to visit Florence, Italy, the home of Panerai, and experience the city in a unique way. Buyers will also get an NFT to mark the occasion.

Replica Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic City Limited Edition

Amidst the bustle of Design Miami 2023, Hublot launched a new limited edition watch in tribute to the vibrant city. The new Replica Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic City has an ‘80s inspired (think Miami Vice) color scheme on the dial and is housed in a sleek black ceramic case. Naturally, since this is a limited edition watch the production numbers are going to be low at only 35 pieces produced. 

The basics of the replica hublot Big Bang Unico Magic City are in line with the standard model: a 42mm wide case that measures 14.5mm thick with 100 m of water resistance. The in-house HUB1280 chronograph movement was totally redone a few years back in order to be properly housed in the smaller 42mm case (previous iterations were 45mm). An integrated flyback column wheel chronograph , the HUB1280 is comprised of 354 components and has a 72-hour power reserve. 

The real magic, so to speak, about this limited edition is the playfully retro purple and blue color scheme on the dial. And then there is my favorite touch, which is the bi-color palm tree at 9 o’clock where the running seconds sub-dial is. The fake watch comes with a classic black rubber strap but it’s the gradient strap that transitions from hues of pink, light purples, and blue that matches the dial that brings the whole piece together. 

Hublot showed excellently balanced restraint in designing the Big Bang Unico Magic City which is demonstrated by the question I always ask myself when judging a themed limited edition: does the watch stand on its own? The Magic City certainly does and as my esteemed colleague Zach Blass noted, it’s perfectly timed with the release of the new Grand Theft Auto 6 trailer that dropped a few days ago.

Reviewing the Replica Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master

In this feature from the WatchTime archives, we take a close look at the modern version of Replica Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master, with black Cerachrom bezel and Oysterflex bracelet. Original photos are by Nik Schölzel.

A water-resistant Oyster case, large hour markers and bold hands are essential elements of Replica Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953 and made for use underwater. In contrast, Rolex’s Yacht-Master, launched in 1992, is a luxury liner – equally at home on board a yacht on the high seas or on land at a ritzy yacht club.

The Yacht-Master was the first watch in Rolex’s Professional Oyster Collection to come in three different case sizes: 29, 35 and 40 mm. The model we tested, launched last year, is offered in two sizes: 37 and 40 mm. We chose the larger version, which we measured at precisely 40.19 mm in diameter and 11.49 mm in height (excluding the magnifying “Cyclops” lens for the date).

The well-known Cyclops date lens was patented by Rolex in 1953 and introduced in 1954 on the Datejust. This magnifying device is made of sapphire, like the watch’s crystal, and has nonreflective coating on both sides. The jumping date advances exactly at midnight.

The watch is powered by a seasoned caliber, the Rolex 3135, used in the very first Yacht-Master in 1992. The 3135 debuted in 1988 in the Submariner. The blue Parachrom balance spring was added to the movement in 2005, five years after it was first introduced in the Cosmograph Daytona. Its paramagnetic alloy resists changes caused by temperature variations and magnetic fields.

The Parachrom balance spring is thinner than a human hair and up to 10 times more resistant to shocks than a conventional balance spring. Provided with an overcoil, it is attached to a large balance wheel with a variable moment of inertia. Fine adjustments are made using four gold Microstella regulating screws. The balance wheel is supported by a height-adjustable bridge. The entire construction ensures rate results that bring the Yacht-Master (as well as the other watches in the Oyster collection) to the rank of “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.” These words on the Yacht-Master’s dial mean that the watch has endured 15 days and nights of testing by COSC in addition to a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratory. Acceptable rate results for a Superlative Chronometer allow deviations of less than +/-2 seconds per day, while COSC’s test permits average deviations between -4 and +6 seconds per day. In addition, Rolex’s tests are carried out under conditions that correspond more closely to real-life situations than COSC’s tests and are conducted on fully assembled watches, while COSC tests just the movements.

The tests performed by Rolex include a water-resistance check. Unlike the Submariner, the Yacht-Master’s water resistance is “only” 100 meters. This means that the Yacht-Master is not designed to be a professional replica watch, which requires water resistance of at least 200 meters.

The Yacht-Master’s bidirectional bezel also keeps it from being a dive watch. The bezel on a dive watch usually rotates in only one direction so it won’t show a shorter dive time if it’s repositioned inadvertently. But the Yacht-Master’s bezel is impressive: it has 120 ratchets and shows graduations in 5-minute increments using both Arabic numerals and line markers. The first quarter has well-defined minutes markers. Polished, raised graduations on the ceramic inlay stand in relief against a sandblasted, matte black background. The bezel is made of Cerachrom, Rolex’s ceramic material. The Ceramic inlay is set in a deeply grooved ring made of Everose gold, Rolex’s rose-gold alloy. A grooved caseback seals the case hermetically and can only be opened using a special tool. Three dots on the screw-down crown indicate that this watch has been sealed with the Triplock sealing system, a triple water- resistance system developed by Rolex.

The screw-down crown sits securely inside the case between two crown guards. Releasing the crown allows it to spring away from the midsection, which makes it easy to use for manual winding, rapid date change and setting the hands.

The dial has a characteristic Rolex look. The applied markers and elongated triangle at 12 o’clock are filled with Rolex’s luminous substance, Chromalight, and are displayed on a matte black background. The hour hand has a “Mercedes” circle filled with Chromalight and the seconds hand has a luminous Chromalight dot. The stark contrast of black and white ensures excellent legibility during the day; at night the Chromalight emits a blue glow for easy reading in the dark.

This watch is the first Rolex with an Oysterflex bracelet. (We use the term “bracelet” rather than “strap” because the Oysterflex, unlike standard rubber straps, has metal on the inside.) Combining a rubber strap with a gold case is nothing new, but at Rolex, known for its conservative approach to design, it’s a major innovation. The patented bracelet has a core made of nickel-titanium alloy blades, which provide excellent flexibility and are coated with a black elastomer, a synthetic type of rubber. When the material is subjected to tension and pressure, it returns to its original shape quickly. It resists environmental changes and is long lasting, waterproof and hypoallergenic – a good alternative to a metal bracelet. The bracelet’s black color goes well with the ceramic bezel and with the Everose gold case, presenting a modern, two-tone look.

Inside the bracelet is a patented cushioning system that increases wearing comfort. The bracelet accommodates changes in wrist size. The single-sided Oysterlock folding clasp made of Everose gold offers additional flexibility; it allows for three length adjustments. Screws attach the clasp securely to the bracelet. A safety bar makes opening the clasp more difficult but prevents it from opening accidentally.

Replica Cartier: Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy, Part 7 – The Cartier Tank

As I’ve previously mentioned in my take on the Jaeger-LaCoultre Reverso, I have a soft spot in my heart for square and rectangular watches. To me, they represent a period long past: an era pre-Golden Age horology, pre-Quartz Crisis, and pre-Modern: a time when a watch was either a tool or an event accessory, with little else in-between. The Replica Cartier Tank watch is no exception to this nostalgia, and is in fact considered one of the icons of this style, as evidenced by the many imitators that followed it.

Cartier (the brand) has long prided itself on the Tank’s rich history. Originally developed in 1917 by Louis Cartier, and released to the general market in 1919, it went from being among the first watches handed to American General Pershing for his service during World War I, to being chosen as the timepiece of choice for President and Mrs. John F. Kennedy, to becoming — perhaps most impressively — one of the very few watch models just as popular with men as it is with women. The Cartier Tank is nothing to scoff at, and while I have number of reservations about the series overall (mostly due to the use of quartz movements in several of them), the watch has earned its place in horology and continues to evolve as a truly classic piece.

While the Cartier Tank long has long been known as a rather fashion-forward series, Cartier has always kept one or two models in its rotation that directly honor the early pieces of the 1920s. Today, those models are the Tank Louis Cartier and the Tank Solo, the first of which we will look at. The Tank Louis Cartier, for the most part, keeps to the original spirit of the Tank watch. Hitting many of the major Tank keys, the piece is housed in an 18k gold, 29.5 mm x 22 mm case, maintains a white Art Deco-style dial with black minute counter and Roman numerals, uses steel-blue sword hands, and, possibly most characteristic of all, has a sapphire-beaded crown. 

The most noticeable change between this watch and its historical predecessors is the movement; I’ll spoil the plot and tell you right now that it’s quartz. Now, of course I have already admitted to an anti-quartz bias, and Cartier has been known to focus almost primarily on quartz movements since at least the 1970s  (go check out the vintage Les Must de Cartier collection), but to me, there is little excuse for Cartier’s most historically important timepiece not to contain a traditional mechanical movement.

In truth, however, the reason why Cartier uses uses quartz movements in these watches is abundantly clear: the Cartier Tank was (and is) famous not because of superb or innovative mechanics, but much more due to a design that made it the watch that so many people want as their personal accessory. Andy Warhol somewhat notably said, “I don’t wear a Tank watch to tell the time. Actually, I never even wind it. I wear a Tank because it is the luxury watch to wear!” I can only imagine that many other people shared this sentiment, and Cartier was smart enough to adjust the product accordingly.

In the spirit of Vintage Eye for the Modern Guy, the second watch we will look at is the more contemporarily designed Tank Anglaise. This watch was released in 2012, with its stated aim to “perfectly embody” Louis Cartier’s desire for seamless design. While the watch is available in 17 different variations in many different metals, sizes, and bracelets — starting from a $4,850 steel case and going all the way up to a diamond-encrusted $168,000 case — the piece has quickly caught the attention of many consumers for its modern Cartier appeal. The model I am focusing on is a steel “large model” (Ref. W5310009), housed in a 39.2 mm x 29.8 mm case, using a nine-sided protected crown with iconic sapphire tip, and on a satin-finished, polished steel bracelet. The watch also features a two-toned flinqué and silvered dial with date window, steel-blue sword hands, and traditional Tank Roman numerals and minute counter. The whole piece is powered by an automatic movement, Cartier Caliber 077.

Given a choice to wear one, I would actually prefer the Tank Louis Cartier over the Tank Anglaise. You may be wondering why, given my previous comments, but the simple truth is that I find the Anglaise, is more an accessory than a tribute. While the watch certainly pays homage to past references — with the dial’s decals, general proportions, and sapphire tipped crown — I find it lacks the historical inspiration and simplicity that defines the older Tank models. I do love the automatic movement, which I’m sure was added as an effort to pay tribute to Louis Cartier and the era of watches in which he lived. But still, this piece appears to be a push deeper into the fashion-oriented, rather than the horology-oriented, realm of the watch world.

Cartier Tank Replica watches are undeniably cool. They’re iconic, and chances are most people (even if they aren’t watch geeks) can identify one in the wild, which always makes for a good conversation. But the series is not without flaws. While I’m positive Cartier will have no problem selling these watches for many more decades, no matter how much the brand strays from the model’s original look and feel, the Cartier Tank is one of the last remnants of the vintage Art Deco era, and I would hate to see it lose its individualistic quality. Have I mentioned that I love square watches?

IWC Replica Unveils Latest Big Pilot’s Edition Featuring Markus Bühler’s “Turbine”

Few other timepieces in IWC Replica Pilot’s Watches collection have attained the level of cult status achieved by the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler from 2008. Originating from a unique piece crafted by the company’s associate director of watch and movement assembly, Markus Bühler, during a competition in the concluding year of his watchmaking apprenticeship at the Schaffhausen-based brand, the model notably featured a device inspired by an aircraft turbine on the small seconds.

Now, fifteen years later, IWC introduces an exclusive re-interpretation, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler (Ref. IW329901). Similar to its forerunner, this watch showcases a small turbine on the dial. However, this time, the distinctive aircraft engine has been seamlessly incorporated into a flying minute tourbillon, which is crafted from a lightweight titanium alloy positioned at 6 o’clock.

Due to the complex geometry and the small dimensions, the milling process alone takes several hours. After machining, each of the twelve minuscule blades are polished by hand and finished to a high level of detail and aesthetic perfection. To avoid the turbine adding additional weight to the mechanism, Bühler used it as the upper part of the tourbillon cage, replacing the regulator. As a result, the eye-catcher on the dial also has a technical function: the hairspring attaches to the underside of one of its blades, and the watchmaker can adjust the zero crossing of the balance by turning the turbine. The state-of-the-art tourbillon consists of 56 parts and weighs only 0.663 grams. The pallet lever and the escape wheel were treated with Diamond Shell technology, a special coating that reduces friction and improves the energy flow in the movement.

The 43mm case and the crown are crafted from platinum. Water resistant to 100 meters, it has been elaborately finished by hand with polished surfaces around the bezel and the horns. The black lacquered, glossy dial has been imprinted with white numerals and features applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova. A black Cordovan leather strap with Markus Bühler’s signature printed on the inner side complements the design.

Powering this Big Pilot’s Watch 43 is the IWC-manufactured 82905 caliber. Its Pellaton winding system has been reinforced with ceramic components and builds up a power reserve of 80 hours in the mainspring. The plates, bridges and the rotor, visible through the sapphire case back, were blackened with a PVD coating, then laser-engraved and finally rhodium-plated in the engraved areas.

When I created my Big Pilot’s Replica Watches with a turbine as an apprentice watchmaker, I would never have imagined I would lead the development of a second edition 15  years later – let alone that I would be responsible for all assembly processes at IWC. To meet the high expectations of our collectors, we decided to create something truly exclusive and integrate the signature turbine into a tourbillon. This new edition perfectly embodies IWC’s engineering spirit while showcasing highest levels of detail and craftsmanship”, explains Markus Bühler,